Jp Trails

Archive for the ‘Jason’s LJ’ Category

So what is the sPOD?

The sPOD replaces a slew of wires and switches likely located all over the dash of your Jeep. The sPOD simplifies all your accessory installs and makes them neat, professional and safe!

I am not the best at reading instructions so I had to start with my coffee, now I am ready! I started by reading over the very well written instructions and they were in color very nice. I opened the box to find everything very well packed and separated. I like the fact that even one parts bag had everything separated to it didn’t get all mixed together.

There are a few options when ordering the sPOD.  I opted for the low voltage cutoff which saves your battery in the event that something gets left on.  Also I got the stickers to I could label the switches very important if your wife drives your Jeep and your 6yr old lights the pretty colors on the switches. I was also very impressed with the quality of the switches,wiring and fit and finish…nothing is done half ass.

Ok now on the the install.  First I removed the front plastic header and removed the passenger visor/loosened the 3 right A pillar trim screws. Next I inserted the 4 clips that hold the switch panel in place. Next you assemble the switches to the metal frame that replaces the plastic header trim piece. Before you bolt it all together attach the wiring harness and route it through the passenger a pillar and the dash. So far very easy and anyone with hand tools can install one of these.  Also note the slots for the visors, very nice attention to detail.

Ok now we drill a hole in the firewall just above where the passenger put their feet 1″ hole-saw. Install the grommet so the wires do not get cut and feed them through the firewall. Now the dirty part..it has to be dirty right?  This all depends on how well you keep your engine clean…well lets say I should have cleaned it before hand!

Using a Phillips screwdriver disconnect the Source from the mounting plate. We now install the mount for the source very simple using a 15mm socket and some muscle take off the bolts which are ground bolts.  This is important to reconnect them last as your Jeep may not function right if you skip this step! Reconnect the source and route the wires through the holes on the back side. This part had me worried as I am not keen on wiring! No big deal every thing is numbered so its easy to connect and if you have the LVCO connect the positive wire to that.In the photo you will see I did not do that but later corrected it. You will need to also need to connect the pos and neg to the battery.

Now you are ready for the easy part, installing your accessories!  The sPOD comes with new connectors and shrink tube to make your install look professional.  Once connected you simply loosen insert plug and tighten with a Phillips screwdriver pos & neg.  No need for relays since they are pre-mounted on the Source. I decided to just hook up the front locker and I am replacing the front lights.  My rock-lights were cheap Walmart’s so they failed after one year so I will need those too. Oh yeah and pretty much everything else you see missing off the switches I labeled!

Install Time:2hrs  (I was documenting and could install another in 1 hr!)

Install Difficulty:Easy you will need a Philips Screw Driver,1″ Hole-saw/Drill and a 15mm socket/Ratchet

Ending Impression:I can’t believe its taken me this long to get the Spod! Installing all my future/current accessories will be a complete painless breeze!

I highly recommend the sPOD for all your power Source needs and stop kidding your self, switches all over your dash powering who knows what… SUCKS!

You can find the Spod at  www.4x4spod.com or other online retailers.

sPOD Toll-Free: 661-755-8139 or www.4x4spod.com

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If your like me and love Jeeps but want economy your not alone.  I have been searching high and low but with little support from after market companies doing your own swap could me a nightmare! Now there is a solution…HPA Motorsports.  Hpa motorsports will be offering TDI conversions for the CJ/YJ/TJ in the very near future.  There are many versions of the TDI and if you want simple you can convert a electronic diesel back to mechanical pump injection meaning fewer wires and no computers.  The TDI typically produces 90HP/178Ft Tq which may not sound like its enough to switch to a TDI conversion. A simple turbo upgrade or intercooling can net 100-150Ft Tq so now the upgrade has your attention.  I am pretty familir with the TDI motor since I owned a 2005 Jetta PD TDI which I never got below 42mpg on average, my best tank being 47 1/2mpg. Now we’re talking about Jeeps and they are not designed to get into the 40′s….maybe the 30′s..maybe.  I am sharing a company newsletter which I recently received and wanted to share.  Also if your going to Sema the project YJ test Jeep will be there TBA.

http://www.hpamotorsports.com/tdijeep.htm

The past several weeks have been busy ones as our team has been working aggressively to finalize tooling and fitment for the Jeep TDI conversion while at the same time, augmenting our YJ’s running gear with a variety of upgraded parts.

To ensure our YJ was up to the task of transmitting the torque and HP of our TDI swap, both the Dana 30 and 35 axles have been torn out and beefed up. Precision Gear was called upon to outfit these small pumpkins with 4:10 gears and Alloy USA delivered unbelievable axles. The quality of these parts builds back our confidence in these OEM axles.

We have made some minor adjustments to our initial engine mounts to facilitate a seamless integration with the OEM rubber mounts. We have elected to supply a ready to install flywheel along with heat shields for the starter to protect it from the downpipe. Lastly, the downpipe has been re-routed to ensure it mates with off the shelf 2.5” exhaust systems. In our case, a Magnaflow has been strapped to the underside of the YJ.

Our Stage 1 Grouping is now finalized and is targeted to the “Do It Yourself” enthusiast. Take a browse through the product photo gallery to see detailed pictures of the installation. Note: Our engine mounts can either be bolted in or welded on. The installation images showcase the installation using the supplied bolts. Minor clearancing is required on the AX-5 bell housing to accommodate Bosch starter nose

The Stage 1 adapter set is as follows:

• CNC flywheel/crankshaft adapter
• CNC bell housing adapter plate
• Left and Right Male / Female engine mount set.
• (OEM jeep rubber mounts not included)
• Downpipe
• CNC machined Starter flange and heat shields
• (Bosch Starter not included)
• Flywheel and Crankshaft bolts
• Dowel pins for bell housing
• Turbo outlet adapter

Also included is a short OEM parts list to identify starters, engines etc. required for a successful conversion.

Stage 1 package $2599 USD

Our Stage 2 package’s intake track has been finalized. An air to water intercooler has been configured to optimize the space available under the hood, and sustain charge air cooling during low speed off-road applications. With off-road low gear terrain, air to air cooling intercooling as the factory TDI’s are equipped was simply not a good fit. Using a stand alone closed loop water system, our secondary radiator, cooling fan, pump and after cooler can maintain a steady state air intake charge best suited to feed our high torque output.

Our Jeep is bound for a debut at this years SEMA show. Once we return, we will develop the AX-15 adapter for late November release.

For most of us TJ owners if you want to gain a better break over angle you need to upgrade to a tucked transfer case skid.  Adding this type of skid alone  will have side effects like no room for the transfer case to move up.  Then we need to add a body lift which makes room for the transfer case, now our engine sits a 1″ or so too low not lining up the fan to the radiator etc…

So now your in the market for a  motor mount lift or (MML) to re-align your drive train closer to stock.  There are several choices out there from replacing the motor mounts to adding a spacer below the factory motor mounts.  This is where Jks Manufacturing comes in by doing  just that by adding an aluminum 1″ spacer below your factory motor mounts.  By doing a spacer you retain factory OE mounts which have far less vibration that some of the alternatives.

Our long term test started in 2005 when I need a way to move the transfer case up.  Lets look at the five years of moderate wheeling with 37′s.

Part Type:1″MML

Part #:PN 8100

Manufacture:Jks Manufacturing

Length of test:5 years

Miles tested:91,500 miles

Test Vehicle:2005 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited (LJ)

Drive train:Stock 4.0 auto trans

Tire Size:37″ BFG

Lift:3″ AEV/Nth/1″ Day Star body lift

Test Results:Moderate wheeling adapter bolt(s) snapped at 92K mies

Recommendation:Strengthen Adapter bolt from grade 5 to grade 8

Product Durability (1-5):4

I have been thinking for a while about getting alloy wheels for my red Jeep LJ. After my research I have decided to go with AEV Pintlers. The AEV  Pintlers are made in the USA by American Expedition Vehicles and are hub eccentric for Jeep brand vehicles. In fact AEV produces the ONLY hub eccentric wheel for the Jeep after market. The Pintlers are also the correct backspacing for the TJ (3.60) or JK (4.70) which mean they fit properly! My biggest reason for looking for alloys would be the steel wheels I have been running for the last 78K miles. The steel wheels do not fit my Jeep properly and steel wheels are not truly round which means they vibrate even with 10 ounces of weight on them. My Jeep is a daily driver and will be for the next few years until it is handed down to my daughter, so little vibrations are noticed!

I have had black wheels for many years and now I am thinking of just using what AEV has to offer. So here is the dilemma…….

Should I get Argent or Silver?  VOTE TODAY!

More information on AEV wheels

http://www.aev-conversions.com/products/wheels/

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